Sunday, 18 March 2012

I hate ants, the movie Antz and Antonio Banderas. You all bite



I have been coming into a bit of luck lately. In fact, I have been experiencing strokes of luck on a fairly consistent basis ever since I left the UK back in October. I went over there to work on a farm (of sorts), which fell through. I remember sitting on a pier in San Francisco around a week into the trip and contemplating what the hell I was going to do. Accommodation was running me $35 a night and I was now about to face the prospect of having to leave the states and head straight into South America, where things were at least a bit cheaper. This pained me as I liked what I had seen of California and I did not feel ready to leave. So instead I took a road trip down the Pacific Coast Highway with some total goon from my dorm and I checked into a hostel on Venice Beach, LA, where I met a Spanish lad Alfonso who could barely speak a word of english. The hostel here was cheaper at $20 s night so I decided to extend my stay for a few nights one Saturday morning. When I went to the desk the receptionist told me it was full and that I would have to leave. Not relishing the prospect of a night on the streets I phoned around a few hostels and everywhere was full. When I returned to the dorm I was faced with a frantic Alfonso, who clearly was suffering the same predicament with the additional problem of not being able to speak the language. It really did scare Alfonso, the language barrier. He was kind of scared to go too far from the hostel, as he could not ask directions etc. I decided that I had to help him, as believe me I have felt like he did a few times over the past year.

So we jumped on the internet and whilst I was logging on I noticed a flyer for a hostel on Pacific Beach, San Diego. It looked pretty sweet and the rates were only $15 a night, so I gave them a call. Again, they were all booked out. So I did a quick search on hostelworld and top of the list came USA Hostels on 5th av, which had previously been voted the top hostel in the whole of the USA, so I went ahead and booked. Alfonso was nervous about this idea, because he needed to be back in LA a few days later and I was not sure if I could come back with him. I reassured him it would be okay and we hopped on a bus down there. When we arrived I was blown away by SD, it is an amazing place. When we checked into the hostel I was greeted by a vivacious young lady named Meg, and upon noticing a sign that they were looking for staff I enquired what the deal was. Meg told me that a group had literally just left, so I was in luck. The prospect of free accommodation meant that I could stay in the US for a while and not have to worry about changing my flights into Peru that were booked for mid December.

As it transpired I had such a great experience in San Diego that I decided to stay on another month. I made some very strong connections with the other members of staff and various travellers who were coming through, and I made some good friends. During my time there I worked with a guy whose best friend works for a publishers reading manuscripts. A contact like this could be the difference between landing a contract or not, and whilst it may come to nothing, is still a large slice of fortune. Next came a text from my Dad, which said that I had been given a rebate of £95 from 2007. Tidy I thought, a few beers. Then he texted again saying that he had mis-spelt, and it was actually £950. I probably don't need to go into detail about how much of a bonus that has been.

It was emotional when I left the hostel, as I had grown close to a number of people. But no sooner had I left that I heard from a good friend Florian, who I met in Indonesia back in May. He was heading to Columbia. So I headed north from Peru and got up there for a month with the Bavarian boys. Then just as my time with the German lads was about to come to a close my good friend Hugo made contact to say he was coming over for a month. In Panama we met a lovely couple who run a farm in California, whom we kept bumping into place after place in the country, and whom we ended up sharing a dorm with for a few nights in Bocas Del Toro recently.

Over the past couple of weeks I have received two short-term job offers in California as a result of the chance connections that I have made since leaving the UK. Add to this the potential publishing contact, the minor cash windfall and the abundance of good friends coming my way and it is clear that I have been experiencing a trail of uncharacteristically good luck. I had not really thought about this until this morning. It is raining hard in Costa Rica today, so I am kind of penned into my room with nothing but a bottle of water and a pipe. I began searching for my speakers to put some music on and as I was rummaging my hand picked up something small, round and rough. At first I thought it might be the missing part of Peter Neil Reed's chin, but when I retrieved it I was surprised to find the little nut type thing that the weird fortune teller / mind reader guy from Malaysia gave me back in March. If you are reading this and don't remember this guy then I suggest you read my post “strange shit is a goin down” from March or April last year, it was fucked up. The guy told me some pretty weird shit, and was convincing enough to make me throw up. Anyway, this guy gave me the little nut thing and told me to keep it on me and it will bring me luck. Ever the sceptic I decided to just leave it at my Dads house, as I don't really want to carry a nut type thing around with my (it kind of looks like a brain, but feels like a nut). So I find the nut and began to think about the strokes of luck that I have been having, which have all been completely down to chance. Then I started thinking about what else the guy said. He told me that March 2012 would be a very important month for me, and by only six days in I had received two potential employment options in California, somewhere that I would love to return for a few months. NB. The guy said “important” as opposed to “lucky”, I am not sure how to translate this difference but I hope it is good. For the rest of March I have been spending long days writing and I really feel as if progress is being made, so it really has felt like an important month for me so far.

Santa Catalina
Anyway, that's the hippy shit out of the way. The last few weeks have been non-stop. Hugo and myself developed a taste for adrenalin sports, sunburn, aloe vera and rum. Following a couple of heavy nights in Panama City we set off for Santa Catilina on the South West Pacific coast. The public transport in Panama is shite. The majority of buses are these shitty little minibuses that have seats barely enough for one person that sit two people. They are predominatly leather and when combined with the heat you find yourself dripping with sweat and forming wet patches in any area in contact with the seat or the person next to you. They pack a dangerous number of people in, so the narrow aisles are packed with locals. It seems to be socially acceptable to sit on people, lean on them or pretty much do whatever you want to them. On one journey I had a girl leaning on my shoulder as an arm rest whilst a child behind played with my hair. On the next journey I had a man placing his arse crack down my arm to keep himself steady. After the journey my arm literally spelt of ass.

I don't know whether it is because I have been spending so much time on public transport lately, but I am seriously considering petitioning for the outlaw of public displays of affection on public transport. On the journey to Santa Catalina I was sat directly behind a couple who over the course of the 2hr journey probably kissed each other one hundred and fifty times. At one point I counted twenty seven kisses in a row. It took every ounce of will not to punch a route right through the middle of their lips. I don't really understand the motivation for this type of carry on, I will assume it is insecurity, but after one session the girl looked round at me and shot me one of the dirtiest looks I have ever received (and not in a good way). She was seriously trying to suggest that I was somehow perving on them. These seats are packed in and I was less than 2ft from their faces and to see out of the window I had to look in their direction. So when she gave me this look I maintained my look, which I hope translated as 'If you want privacy then fornicate in a private place you fucking moron.' Following this stare off she turned back to her boyfriend, who then looked at me and they began to laugh. Is this what the future holds? Getting mocked for having my eyes open on public transport? Probably. I certainly look forward to the day when everyone just closes their eyes on the underground, there is only so many times that someone can read the underground map. This kind of thing is happening with such regularity that I am begninning to automatically seek seats as close to the front as possible, front seat if available. When I came to South America kipper warned me that there are a lot of bus crashes, and that the safest place on the bus is towards the middle and back on the right hand side. I now find myself voluntarily reducing my chances of survival and sitting at the front left just to avoid these sacks of shit.

So after a couple of these delightful bus journeys we arrived in Santa Catalina in time for a pretty impressive sunset over the bay. The next day we decided to take some surf lessons, which were advertised for $15 at our hostel. We began to worry when a small boy, probably eight years or so, started arranging our boards and trying to communicate to us in Spanish. Our fears grew further when another 8yr old non-englis speaking lad turned up and we all got into a van to head to the beach. When we got there we soon became resigned to the fact that we had just burned $15, although they did draw us some surfboards in the sand and teach us in spanish how to lie face down in the dirt. The surf there was perfect for beginners, and there were some pretty reasonable size waves. The main issue was that we did not really know how to surf, and neither of us understood what these kids were trying to say. It began to get awkward so I started trying to paddle away from my guy, whilst Hugo persisted and got a few push offs from his boy. We both managed to get up a few times and once the kids did one we had a good time.

Get me out of that god damn sun
One thing that I forgot to mention is Hugo's ability to lose things. A day does not pass without something disappearing, and on the day we went surfing it was sun cream, puyfect. When we realise we tried to buy some more but the village is tiny, and the “shop” is rather limited in products (they ran out of bread for 3 days, but their tinned sardines were in plentiful supply). So we went surfing for 5hrs without suncream. We had actually bought aftersun for the first time the day before, but luckily it had opened up in my hand luggage and covered almost anything of value that I have. So six hours later our faces began to hurt, quite a lot. When we got up the next day for diving we were in really quite a lot of pain. We both spent the day trying to keep out of the sun as best we could, but the diving tour was not too conducive of this. I wasn't exactly convinced that I could remember how to dive, it has been almost a year. Then Hugo hit me with the news that his had been 8 years, but we were sort of confident we would pick it up again. The place we went was called Coiba, a national marine park that was once adjoining the Galapogas islands, and is famed for it's big fish. The 1.5hr boat journey was encouraging, where I saw several dolphins, a turtle and some manta ray.

Our first dive was something that I did not expect possible. The fish were just unbelievable, thousands upon thousands. And then, as I have been dreaming of for a year, a whale shark came cruising towards me. These things are fucking huge, biggest fish in the ocean, and we were lucky enough to see two of them. Hugo and me had been a bit concerned that we would hold up the rest of the group and use up our oxygen quicker, as all the rest of the group had their own equipment. But they were total jokes. One guy was particularly annoying, he was floating around, going vertical and almost kicking my face off, then sinking and going upside down etc. We had a divemaster but everytime I looked round our group had become smaller, and after half an hour there was only me and Hugo left. The divemaster did not seem bothered so we carried on regardless. By the time we surfaced all of the others were already on the boat and changed out of their gear, very weird.

The second dive was a lot more challenging. When the divemaster began talking about the currents it made me a little nervous, and when we went down 15m we litterally had to hold on to rocks and swim hard into the current to try and stay together. We were told to stick close to the rocks and the bottom of the ocean to avoid the currents, but they were strong everywhere, and when you caught a good one it was like being on a waterslide, proper good fun. We had only booked a two tank dive, so the pro's went off on the third and we went snorkelling. After half an hour I was looking out to sea when the jerk who could clearly not dive breached the surface of the water feet first. I am not quite sure how he did this, as the rules of the floatation device he was wearing renders this practically impossible, but I am confident that he will have died of nitrous poisoning later that night.

One of the most refreshing things about having Hugo with me is not having to make friends. No need for any more shit conversations about where I have been. Sure, they obviously still happen with regularity, but I am no longer forced into instigating them. It allowed me to be more selective when being approached by instigators, which I believe has led to a sustained period of very high grade travelling buddies. We met some good people over the past month, and It was nice to be part of a double act. I have always been a greater ease when mates have come to join me in various places, things instantly become easier and far more leisurely. The pressure to interact is removed and as a result I am able to me myself without worry of being ostrasiced. It is surprising how often I have thought to myself about the value of having someone I know with me on the road, there are definitely a number of benefits. A lot of people travelling alone suggest that it is the only way to meet people, as you are forced to do so. Those who know me know that I don't like to be forced to do anything. I am far more comfortable with not being forced to make friends (see networking events for reference). When you are forced to make friends the conversation is invariably bland for all parties. When you have a back up, ie a mate, you don't really give a shit about peoples impressions and you can be yourself. I imagine this is pretty much applicable in any social situation. Just having someone there who can apologise on a friends behalf and reassure any upset parties that “he is not normally like that”. A fairly pertinent example of this came the night after Hugo left. I fell into the sea and woke up naked in the wrong dorm bed. I am reliably informed by other guys in the dorm that the person whose bed I was in was not very happy about the situation. Four hours later I was crossing the Costa Rican border wearing no shoes. This is what happens when I have no one to explain on my behalf that I am essentially a normal person, but can occassionally go a bit frank the tank when drunk.

Anyway, back to Panama. After a few days in Catalina we decided to go up into the mountains at Boquette. This place was a whole different climate. We had grown accustomed to temperatures in the mid to high thirties, and it was kind of nice to put on jeans and get out of the heat. It is a nice little town that has prospored from tourism, and there was plenty to opt for, so we chose white water rafting and ziplining. When we signed up for the white water rafting we both had images of us flying over waterfalls in terror. When we arrived at the office there was a family with two young kids, a pair of gays and three women over the age of sixty. We both sat silently disappointed but when we got chatting with these people we realised that we were in good company regardless of the ride. It turns out that one of these ladies was seventy seven years old, and the gays had been on a tour with her that had taken her trekking and caving along with rafting – pretty fucking impressive if you ask me. The rafting was good craic, me and Hugo were lead team at the front but we did not take our responsibilites very seriously. We spent most of the time trying to push each other out of the boat and splash one of the other two boats. Hugo, who regularly and openly praise's his own aquatic abilities (he is by his own admission “impossibly aquatic”) was not very comfortable hitting the currents, and instead of manning his side and keeping the balance he would leap onto my side every time he hit a wave. This was annoying and his comuppance finally arrived when we hit a big one and he went straight over the top of me and into the water – becoming the first and only member of the party that had to be rescued by rope.
Humiliation for Hugo as the gays run him over


Old ladies, gays and the boys
That evening me and Hugo went for a meal with the old ladies and the gays, which was surprisingly good fun. Next morning we were due to go ziplinging but we had a few beers and when I woke up at 7.30am I phoned us into the afternoon slot. We both felt a bit nervous as the truck up there started hitting some serious height. By the time we got to the first line Hugo was visibly shaken and my discomfort with heights was not easy to mask. At times there were about fifteen of us stood on these small platforms built 50m up a tree, and once you had begun there was no turning back or stopping. It was a good laugh and zipping through the canopy of a rainforest is different, but if it had cost more than $60 then I would have been pissed (the one in Laos which I did not do was $400).

Our final destination in Panama was Bocas Del Toro, a tropical location made famous for hosting the television series “Survivor”. We had to wait about 2hrs to get this shitty bus to a small town that is the launching point to Bocas. When we arrived Hugo got to experience aparticularly irritating ritual that I have had to go through many many times over the last year or so. Getting off the bus to be greeted by some shifty looking local who is trying to make some commission off disorientated travellers. This prick was on a bike and just would not leave us the fuck alone. We had our backpacks, it was fucking hot and the walk took about twenty minutes whilst this guy tried to make conversation that neither of us were interested in having. All the time there were even shiftier looking guys all on these bikes that I associated with hood movies. I associated anyone over the age of 16 on a bike with crime, and these guys were communicating with each other as we passed and personally I felt like this guy was leading us to be mugged and probably bummed. Fortunately, and as has always been the case there was nothing to fear, but also as always these are tense moments until you actually arrive at the transport or hostel that they are supposedly leading you to.

The boat journey was pleasant and as soon as we arrived in Bocas we began to bump into people that we had met in other places across Panama. On the first night we probably met six or seven different people that we had spoken to along the way, which was pretty nice. The American couple that we met on San Blas were staying in our dorm along with three American lads from Detroit who were on their spring break, and we began hanging out as a group which was really good fun. The young American guys were some of the most interesting and engaging twenty one year olds that I have ever met. Two of them are ghost writers, which as well as sounding cool is a pretty sweet job. They basically just write university papers for rich kids who cannot be bothered to do it themselves, and they make good money ($25 a page). There were several islands to go visit and we saw some dolphins and saw some nice shit. Amongst the highlights was a day trip to another beach, which involved a trek through a disasterously muddy trail.
Post trail


 My flip flops broke after five minutes and I had to ditch them, but on the plus side Hugo fell off a log, so swings and roundabouts. We bought with us a chinese guy we had met in the hostel who was hilarious to watch. When we got to the beach it was like he had never seen the ocean before. He was running in and then running away from the waves, just repeatedly for about half an hour. A couple of the americans had dropped acid and one of them became involved in conversation with the Chinese guy for about 2hrs. I don't know what was discussed but when David, the chinese guy returned he honestly said it had been the best day of his life. It was really quite touching I guess. He actually lives in Panama City and is twenty six, so I am not really sure what he does with his time, it was pretty much a standard day for myself.

Decabots
 At night the rum flowed in Bocas. Myself and Hugo forged ourselves a reputation as a couple of merry drunks, which we attribute to the local rum – best booze going. But alas, all good things must come to an end, and when it became time for Hugo to depart I was left to reflect on how great it would have been to have him on board for the whole trip.

The American lads were flying home from Costa Rica and invited me with them to a party in Puerto Viejo the next evening, so I decided to travel on with them. That night I went out drinking with the Detroit boys and quite what happened I don't know. As I mentioned I woke up naked in the wrong bed at 7am, twenty minutes before we had to catch the boat and move onwards to Costa Rica. I had managed to lose my flip flops and everything seemed to be wet. In the rush I left behind all of my washbag and cosmetics which was a bonus. I then had to cross the border wearing no shoes.


The Ark
The party to which we were headed was for a guy called Jay, who owns a huge hostel in Puerto Viejo called rocking J's. The Detroit guys had been here one week before bocas and met the guy that runs the place - J. It is this huge plot with big Open air structure's filled with tents and hammocks. He has planted grass and there are loads of open air communal areas and it had it's own private beach area. The perfect party hostel. So they met this guy and he began telling them that he genuinely believes the world will end in 2012, and on that basis his last birthday was this year, the day the four of us headed here from bocas. When I got there they showed me the ark that he has built out back, complete with gun turrets and several crates of guns and ammunition. It was his birthday, and on this basis he believes that it will be his last birthday, so in preperation he bought 400 bottles of spirits between about 100 people. I emplore you to do the maths.


Free booze
 It was a pretty messy night, he had fires going on the beach and as soon as your glass was empty someone would be there to fill it. At around 5am I met one of the biggest douchebags that I have ever had the misfortune of meeting. This guy was just the pits, and the worst part was that he was English. He had an air of Jesus about his long hair, thick beard. When he began to speak he sounded exactly like Neil from the young ones. When he started putting on this hippy act I was left no option but to destroy him. He was clearly just some berk who is trying to get laid by sounding spiritual, which is fine, but he was just so terrible at impersonating a hippy that it was just plain disturbing. It was like he had once watched an episode of the young ones and had then decided to try and be a hippy. He was rubbish. He started piping on about negative energy and said that he was the victim of racial hatred. I asked him what the fuck he was going and as it transpires he has basically been getting picked on everywhere he goes. If you met this guy you would totally know why. He walked ankle deep into the sea and started talking about the connection he felt with nature (in Neil from the young ones voice) and I just burst out laughing. When I talked to him one-on-one he sounded like your average Tim nice but dim, but he seems pretty resilient in his hippy rouse and refuses to break character on the public stage. The last thing I remember asking him was if the rumours that he is a hermaphrodite were true, didn't speak to him again after that.


The morning after the Detroit guy's left I checked out and went looking for alternative accommodation, and for the first time in six months I got room to myself. I Feel pretty exposed to the elements here. This is the Closest I have slept to an ocean with serious waves. I slept on loads of huts on the beach in Asia, but the seas were calm over there. The sea is fookin aggressive here, the wave are big and the surf douches are a'plenty. The waves are upto 20ft in this region and the noise of the ocean is very prominent. My cabina is an odd structure. It is a triangle formed by two sheets of corregated iron and the ground. The end facing the ocean only has a dwarf wall with a sparse wooden cross hatch above it. It is totally open air except for a very poorly fitted mosquito mesh. In addition to the racket of the ocean it has been raining hard some days. The noise of these downpours against the correguated tin roof is deafening, and is slowly driving me mad. If the rain is blowing away from the sea towards shore then around half of my bed gets rained on through the mesh. Pretty good fun at 4am when you are also desperately trying to maintain the integrity of mosquito net that has seen better days. There are a lot of Mosquitos here, shit loads of the little fuckers. When I turn the light on I have to watch then all trying to float through the net, in the full knowledge that one of them is bound to sneak through the big hole up towards the roof. Once it is in then it is basically like an all you can eat buffet. When I wake in the morning there are usually 4 or 5 in the net with me. There is something disturbingly satisfying about slapping a mosquito and seeing your own blood explode out of them. Circle of life. It is not such a bad way to go, quick and painless after enjoying a nice hot meal. I on the other hand face liver failure on the bed of some third world hospital due to malaria. We will see who has the last laugh.

Home sweet home

So I have my own hut but I feel like I am being invaded. I have a crab living behind the the lining wall and the corregated tin and every night it is scratching around and searchingmy shit for food. I woke up at 2am the other night and there was a rat dragging my french baguette across the floor. Two hours later I awoke and there was a frog sat on my stomach. I don't know how it got into my mosquito net, but as soon as I flinched it started panicing and bouncing around against the net and back on to me. This is the rainforest and I am pretty sure that there are poisonous frogs about. There are ghekkos crawling all over the wall but at least they eat some of the moths. But the ants are by far the worst. Their bite fucking kills and leaves a mark. Due to the lack of privacy, rain on my bed and swarms of insects I feel like I am constantly being violated. The ants were my fault, sort of. I have enjoyed some 'alone time' recently. One day it was pissing it down so I was sat writing in my room all day. I was consistently feeling these really nasty stinging bites on my feet all and I kept finding these tiny ants. They were sporadic so didn't really make anything of it. By around 9pm the intensity and regularity were increasing, and I looked at the floor and there were an absolute swarm of ants around the boxer shorts that I had lazily used for 'clean up'. I can only assume that the little fucks were harvesting my jizz (circle of life) and then biting me for good measure. When I picked up the pants there were literally hundreds of the horrible little bastards, and they all started crawling up my arms and biting me. I ran out of the room waving a pair of pants in the air right infront of the rasta's smoking at reception outside, and whilst they were laughing at my I was jumping up and down in a puddle and flapping around trying to get these fucks off me. Pretty annoying on the whole as now they are everywhere. I have seen at least 5 crawl into the USB port of my netbook, probably not doing it much good. The power cable only works fifty percent of the time now.

I have been here for a couple of weeks and I hang out with a lot of the locals who work and relax here. During this time I have stumbled upon one of the worst individuals that i have ever met. His name is Hunter and he looks like a mixture of Beppe from eastenders and rivaldo. Deep set eyes, rubbery complexion and thin goatee beard. He is one of the guys that grabs tired and disorientated travellers of buses and drags them to a guesthouse for a commission. This guy is permanently fucked up on coke, his face looks like it is spasaming. Fuck knows where he gets the money for this habit or who is feeding him but judging by his behaviour he is doing a lot. He does this 'raise of the eyebrow' thing whilst saying something that I don't understand, and he just keeps staring at me through one bulging eye raising one eyebrow up and down really quickly. Combined with the constant churning of his gurning mouth and chin it makes him look like something inbetween beppe, popeye and a retard. He is one of the most unnerving individuals I have ever met. He pops up everywhere. As I am writing this he has just sat in the hammock next to me, arriving 5 minutes after i'd left a table to get away from him, which itself came less than 5 minutes after his arrival at said table. I suspect that he is on the brink of a full psychotic episode and I would really rather not be around to see it. I am growing worried that I might actually cause the onset. I am pretty sure he was saying something about me not listening to him but I couldn't understand, then he said something doing the popeye face and I laughed. I laughed too and then he asked me a question that I didn't understand. I spend the whole of these conversations trying to get away from the moron. He interupts any conversation with some jibberish sentence whips out the popeye and completely kills the vibe. Everyone then just sits in silence until the wise make their excuses about where they have to be. I am convinced that he hates me, but he turns up everywhere I go, which I suspect is because I smoke and he is hoping I will offer him one. I would give him one if it would make him fook off, but I think it will just encourage him.

Probably the best photo I have ever taken
Closely followed by this
It is hard to not feel a bit like a hippie here. I am pretty much sleeping in nature and I smell. Clean clothes are an issue, everything feels damp within seconds of removing it from my rucksack. Having been here two weeks i have tried not to wear much. One pair of swimming shorts, no underwear and a vest is the standard and I have not washed these things once. I must fucking stink. Every time I wear something clean it feels dirty in ten minutes so I have stopped wearing anything new. One observation is that if you ever want to make your clothes smell then sit in a communal hammock for ten minutes, man those things wreak. I have spent so much time in a hammock over the past year, time that has given me many of the ideas that will hopefully provide me with a career one day, that I cannot imagine a life without hammocks now. I will definitely be bringing one home, but it could be a while before I find somewhere to put it. A Swiss guy I know has one in his lounge overlooking a lake, that is the kind of set-up I seek. It would be easy to build a small structure to accommodate one, just a small glass or perspex overhang and a couple of uprights to hang the hammock between. Becky that pergola you never use has got hammock written all over it... I would recommend a hammock to anyone, in fact I could probably have one instead of a bed. If this book of mine ever does amount to anything then i will owe a large debt of gratitude to hammocks, they really are the thinking man's best friend
Laters.

Looks better than Weston-Super-Mare on a rainy day





Sunday, 19 February 2012

All aboard the Kindle express, first stop - Paradise


So, Hugo has been here a couple of weeks and we are essentially embarking on a tour of paradise. We started out in Cartegena, which was a stunning city that has world heritage status around the old town. We managed to catch up with the German boys for a couple of nights which was some pretty heavy drinking.. For the second time I tried to go to a south American league game and for the second time I managed to fuck it up. I had been told that it kicked off at 5.30pm, I had even bought myself a Real Cartegena shirt in preparation. When we were about to get in the taxi there were a load of people in shirts crowded around a TV watching the match. Apparently it was 3.30 kick off. Tidy. Our first hostel there was pretty mint, it had a swimming pool at the centre, a big bar and a roof terrace to hang out on, and hang out we did.

Hard going
Hugo learned first hand the issues involving having to be a lot more organised over here than in south east Asia. We had been planning to sail over to panama, but due to the fact that it is now Carnival there were no boat available when we wanted to leave, so I spent an entire day trying to plot our exit from Columbia, as I was aware that our next destination definitely would not have internet. After an impossible amount of searching I found flights for $250, booked them and got no fucking confirmation back. The company I booked with were based in San Diego, 3hrs behind us. We were due to leave at 7am the next morning and I could not find out if I had even booked the flight until 11am the next day when their offices were open. Pretty convenient. In the end I had to phone them the next day, speaking to some Indian call centre moron who did not speak English, which tipped me over the edge and I just cancelled them. This meant another 5 hours rescheduling and rebooking every thing. But after visiting Tayrona National Park it quickly became worth it. What had failed to occur to me was the weight of our rucksacks combined with the 2.5hr trek through the jungle to our final destination. A steady flow of travellers were passing us with ease avec their tiny day packs. Needless to say anyone with a brain had left their rucksacks at the hostel. It was pretty hard going. A German lad called Felix had come with us from Cartegena and he did not seem to struggle as much, but for someone who has not exercised for about a year it was tough. We reached the first beach resort about half way there at around 5pm, and took the decision to stay there. The only sleeping option were hammocks, which were strung up in this big hut type thing which looked pretty eerie. I had not slept in a hammock before so I came prepared with rum and valium. I got a bit of a camp-fire going and then we drank the rum and prepared for what lay ahead. These hammocks had mosquito nets which was a nice touch. When I woke in the morning a 5 cm square part of my shoulder had been pressed against the net, and I had a patch of around 20 bites, tidy stuff.

Early the next day we got going again, and on the way I spotted a local guy smoking a massive joint, so I stopped off to make a quick purchase. As soon as I turned around I saw that two of the army guys who man the park had been watching the whole thing from about 20 metres away, so I was preparing myself for another 'fine' (as we entered the park they spotted our rum and 'fined' us $5 to let us take it in. But I was not too sure what the etiquette with this was, so as I went behind some rocks I buried the weed. When I walked past they said nothing, so I went back ten minutes later and dug it back up. I knew I was kind of a marked man after this so I buried that weed in about 20 different places over the course of the next 6 days. When we arrived after another sweaty hike it was like paradise. Breath-taking beaches sitting afoot huge jungle covered mountains. Our accommodation for the first night was considerably worse. Row after row of hammocks so close that when you got in you were touching the person next to you. We had run out of rum and when I felt the heat of proximity I knew that I was in for a bad night. I could hear mosquito approaching, then the noise would stop right as they got to me, but I was so wedged in that I could not even slap them away. There were also several bats flying around in there which did not contribute to our comfort. 
hell
Hugo quickly developed a fear of them and tried his best to irritate them out of there by following them with his torch. Occasionally when he caught it right it looked like the batman signal against the roof. About as cool as it got in those surroundings. It got to about 5am and I knew something had to change. Hugo said when he woke up he looked around and could not see me, then he peered over the edge to see me fast asleep in the dirt floor, surrounded by beer cans with at least 5 flies on my face at any one time. Needless to say we upgraded to the Mirador the next morning, which was this big pergola type construction on top of the rocks. It was very windy up there, very windy indeed. This suited me, I had a sleeping bag, hugo on the other hand, for someone who is not so keen on the cold at the best of times, was not quite so comfortable. He only had a sheet, so he was cocooning himself, and I believe one night he even sealed himself in with masking tape. The views we had when we woke up were incredible, it is probably the best place that I will ever sleep.

The Mirador
There were a few Americans also in the Mirador so the next night I went and dug up the weed and set about building a camp fire on the next beach along (a short passage through the jungle). Just as I was getting her going the military type people appeared out of nowhere and instantly walked in my direction. It was the only time that I had weed on me, and my bumhole began to twitch. For some reason I was wearing thin trousers over my swimming shorts, and in the shorts pocket was weed, two packs of burns (one as a wallet) and a lollipop. He patted me down and felt everything in my pocket, which he asked to see. As I went in for the first pack of smokes I managed to move the weed to the top of the pocket. He felt me up again and this time felt the ball of weed and asked me to take it out. I brought out my auxiliary burns and managed to move the weed out of my pocket and round the back of my trouser leg. This time he felt me again and only felt the lollipop, which he assumed was what he felt before. When he walked away and started searching the rest I tried to act calm, so I put a cigarette in my mouth, lit it and almost spewed when I realised that I had lit it the wrong way round. Smooth. They left empty handed and slightly dejected that they did not pick up a haul. I was pretty god damn relieved to see the back of them. The next day me and Hugo went on a bit of a trek through the jungle to see some old ruins which was pretty cool. The ruins themselves were turd, as is the case with ruins, but the trek there was pretty cool, involved a bit of bouldering etc. It took about an hour and a half to get up there, and when we arrived at the ruins a few of the yanks were up there. I had seen a phone that someone had put next to my camera, and knowing about Hugo's ability to lose things I asked him on the way down if he had left his phone up there, which he had not. I did not bother to ask anyone else. Needless to say when we got out of the jungle someone realised it was theirs and they had to go up and back again to find it. Whoops.

Not sure how this happened
We had originally planned to stay until the friday, then a night in Teganga followed by buses to Baranquilla to fly out to panama early monday morning. Instead we liked it so much there that we opted to stay one more night in Tayrona, although we were both down to the very last of our money. We had dinner and got an early night as we knew the horrendous trek out of there that lay in wait the next day. I woke up at 2am on the verge of spewing and shitting myself. To get to the toilet I had to climb down the rocks in the pitch dark and walk over to the camp. When I got there I was not the only one having similar issues, there were people spewing and crapping everywhere. I felt like I had spewed out my soul and when I got back hugo was awake, fairly smug that it was not happening to him. His arrived about 2 hours later, but I think not so bad as he was not sick. I guess this is down to the fact that he is taking malaria tablets, which are a general antibiotic. I could not sleep after that so we set out early doors. We had just enough money to pay for a horse to take our rucksacks, but the 2.5hr walk back was a horrendous experience. We were so meek, and I was impossibly dehydrated, but every time I tried to drink I would spew it back up. Pretty ideal conditions for a trek. Anyway, we managed it, thoroughly unenjoyable and tough going, but soon enough we were on the bus en route to Baranquilla. The city was a bit of a hole, it felt much more like Columbia. The hostel was okay, it was run by a really nice italian guy who we chatted with for quite a bit. It made me feel even worse about what happened to his towel. My stomach had begun to sort itself out and I took a shower the next morning as we had to leave at 4am. I took a bit of a risk and let one rip, and I realised instantly that a squit of diarrhoea had just sullied his pristine wh ite towel. This almost tipped hugo over the edge, and when he saw it his first question was where the trail ended up. After a brief search he realised that the rest had landed in his flip flop, so every cloud.

Bit of an issue if you don't like your neighbour
When we arrived in Panama City, a very nice place by the way, we made o9ur arrangements to get across to the San Blas islands, a two way 3hr jeep journey that was departing at 5am. After the Tayrona rucksack débâcle I advised Hugo that we should consider just taking stuff in our day packs. Hugo looked slightly disgusted and we decided to take our whole packs. When we got up and walked down to the Jeep we were met with equal disgust, and we had 5 minutes to transfer anything we needed into our day packs. Hugo quickly realised that he had managed to lose his kindle, just 72 hours after he managed to sit on mine and break it. So we are now down two kindles amongst various other things that Hugo has managed to misplace along the way. The jeep ride was an experience. It was a cross between a roller-coaster and a simulator. Good fun, and the scenery was pretty special. We caught a boat down a river which opened out into an ocean full of tiny little islands (365 to be exact). 


It's not 5 star but it is certainly competitive
Some of these islands are inhabited by the indigenous Kuna people, whilst others had some very basic guest huts on them. We chose one and it was picture postcard beautiful. Conditions were very basic, there was some toilet type thing but no shower and we were living in sand floored huts, but it was all part of the experience there. We were living amongst a Kuna tribe, and the ruddy Kuna's seemed to have a meeting outside our hut every bloody morning. It became a tad irritating as I have not felt particularly well slept of late. My mattress was so soft that Hugo could not tell if I was in bed from the outside as I just disappeared into it. Food was included in the accommodation cost, which was three sort of meals a day. Breakfast was some kind of egg type thing and bread, followed by the standard rice and burnt salty fish for lunch and dinner (life is so hard). On our first day we took a trip to snorkel off one of the other islands. This mess of a bloke turned up on our boat, covered from head to toe in bright white sun block. I did not even need to speak to him to know he was english. We went for a snorkel and swam to a nearby island, before coming back to see one of the most ridiculous things I have seen. Mr Bean, as I shall call the sun block guy, was trying to get back to land by climbing over the coral about 30 metres from shore. In between my laughing all I could hear was him screaming and shouting, it was so funny but he was also clearly killing really quite a lot of coral. When he got to shore he was covered in cuts and some yellow shit which no one knew what it was. In the rush to pack my daypack I had forgotten my head torch, which was kind of a problem as there was no electricity or lights in the hut. One night we came in at 11am and there was a massive yelp from the floor and something big ran under the bed. After emptying my pants I realised that one of the local dogs had somehow managed to get in

Bean
We spent that evening with Bean and some nice American guy. I had assumed that Bean was some 50+ year old sex tourist, but it turns out he was only 36 years old and had just quit his job writing questions for the Weakest Link game show, and was about to become a lawyer. It is amazing what you assume about people and what you find out. A few days before Hugo arrived I met an American couple who were travelling on the money that the girl had won appearing on the wheel of fortune game show. The day Hugo arrived I got chatting to an Austrian girl on a park bench and ended up going for a few drinks, and it turned out that she had gone on a game show in Austria and won £50,000. Mother fucker. Maybe everyone I see travelling is some piece of crap that has won big on television, that is certainly the assumption that I will make about most people that I meet.



Impossibly aquatic
We spent a few nights chilling on San Blas and have now returned to Panama City for a few nights of the Carnival, which will probably be a massive disappointment but I have no idea what to expect. We bought a bottle of rum yesterday and started drinking it at midday. We were so drunk that we did not really see much of the festival and we were back at the hostel by 8pm utterly wasted. I looked though my photos this morning and it looks like I spent most of my time carrying around some kid dressed in a ridiculous costume. There are at least 4 separate occasions that I have scooped this kid up and I am carrying him around, poor kid probably did not have a clue what was going on. My last memory is me and hugo getting kicked off one of the floats and then there is a nice photo of me lay in the road pissing down a drain. There is plenty more where that came from. On the plus side my spanish is slowly improving, but there are still plenty of things lost in translation. The other day I asked a guy if he sold ice cream (he was carrying a cool box). He started talking for 30 seconds and then started doing an impression of a chicken. I did not have a clue what he said or led him to the chicken impression, so I laughed along with him and repeated my question. This type of thing is fairly commonplace. Over and out.

Brits on tour

An eclectic gang

Why is this man carrying me?


He has got me again

Okay, this is getting beyond a joke

Get away from me, or I will have you arrested

Wednesday, 1 February 2012

Another epic journey, and Columbia with ze Germans


So again I think it has been a few weeks since my last update, I think the last rant came after the 60hr journey to get to Lima. I remember hoping that I would never go through a journey like that again. Needless to say two days later I was embarking on a 78hr bus journey to get to Bogotá to meet up with my German mate Florian. I looked into a flight and at that notice the cheapest that I could find was going to run me £600. How's about noooo, okay scotty. I began to think about the logistics of getting there, the border crossings, the wholesale lack of Spanish as a dialect. When I began to read about the border crossings the fear set in and I questioned whether I was up to it. But I had come this far and in retrospect it was a good experience. I decided that if I could make a journey like that with only the most basic of Spanish at my disposal then I could make it pretty much anywhere across this continent. The first thing that really struck me was how little anyone here speaks English, and how much effort it was going to be on the organising front. Granted this has never been my strong point, and it took me a couple of days to plan how I was going to get to Bogotá – but even then my plan was full of holes. I knew a basic route and I managed to make an impossibly frustrating phone call to a bus company that was heading to Puiria in the north of Peru. Beyond this I thought that I could take a nights sleep in Quito (Ecuador) in a couple of days – as the lonely planet advises against taking buses at nights. It was a pretty flaky plan but I had written the names of some towns in the various countries, which was probably the minimum that I could do.

I did not really have a great feeling for Lima. I was in the supposed nicest part and it was still a bit of a dive. In fairness I say this about pretty much every city I have ever been to, but as I left the outskirts the poverty and reality really hit home. Huge shanty towns made up of tiny huts littered the horizon. Then shit got even more real when I realised that the road had been cut into some huge mother fucking sand dunes, which must collapse every time it rains. It was pretty nerve racking, these huge sand banks a meter from the bus window and a 200ft drop into the pacific ocean on the other side. 

View from the bus window - road has a pretty solid base I imagine
This bus was a 15hr stint and I after watching a couple of films in Spanish I was given my first taste of the lovely Spanish music that gets played on these journeys. It is impossibly bad. The music itself is this continually upbeat combination of pipes, harmonicas and god knows what else. Apparently they also sing about heartbreak and other such topics but always just continually to these upbeat songs. The best analogy I could draw is imagine burying your dog to the match of the day theme tune. For 15hrs. Anyway, things began to get tough around 8hrs in when I realised that there were not going to be any scheduled stops – aka no burns. There was a toilet on board, I gave it consideration but the smell of that toilet was worse than any lack of nicotine. I was also getting pretty hungry, then at 7am some pikey looking bloke got on the bus with a basket of what looked like buns that had been run over. I did not know what he was saying so I waved some money at him and in exchange I got a squashed roll with a cold fried egg in the middle. Mmm yummy. The alternative to eating it was holding it and looking at it, so I ate it.

The Peru / Ecuador border
We arrived at around 9am and the place was shit, so I booked onto the 9.30am to Lajo, Ecuador The scenery was pretty much desert until approaching the Ecuador border. I was the only westerner on the bus which made me a bit nervous about the border crossing, but it was all pretty smooth going. They could tell that I didn't have a clue what they were saying and I suspect that they could not be assed asking questions any more than I could be assed listening to them. Once in Ecuador as we reached the Andes the scenery was pretty incredible stuff. I arrived in Loja at around 6.30pm and it was too dark to contemplate anything but another bus – it genuinely felt like the safest place to be after standing in the bus terminal for 10 minutes. So I booked the 9.30pm to Quito arriving at 9am the next day. By this point I could no longer feel my legs and I was in some perpetual state of confusion, so it was quite welcome that they use American dollars in Ecuador I had no spare capacity for currency calculations. So another 12hrs of upbeat weird music and I was in the capital. I was so tired and fed up that the thought of getting into the city and finding a hostel made me immediately stumble my way through another bus reservation and onwards another 5hrs to the Columbian border at midday. I had to have my bag between my legs because some fucking goon turned up with a double mattress to store on the bus. Nice one.
Load your double mattress on there ked


When I arrived in the pretty grim town of ipales it was getting dark – and it was the first time that I began to feel a bit scared. Everyone was staring at me but no one was interested beyond that. There was no one trying to hassle me or 'help' me. I had read on the internet that I needed to get a taxi to the border, and not knowing the word for border I just muttered Columbia through a drivers window and off we went. I feel nervous about getting into most taxis over here. Not only are they these shitty little yellow cars that I have never seen, but I am also never sure if I am actually going to arrive where I have asked them to take me. The border crossing was a little nerve racking, lots of shifty looking characters acting shifty, waving wads of cash at me for some reason. Show offs. It was okay, but not an experience I would recommend. Another death ride in a taxi to the nearest town called Tulcan to see that this place was as soulless as ipales, so I went straight to the bus terminal and booked a night bus to Cali. 

Camera does not do it justice
Again, the scenery was unreal when I woke in the morning. The road circumnavigated the Andes, rising high high into the landscape – it really was a sight for very sore eyes. When I arrived in Cali it looked very nice, but I was now within 20hrs of Bogotá so I thought fuck it, may as well just carry on. This journey was a little more real. We were boarded several times by police with torches, camcorders and guns. I had taken a valium to sleep so I was fairly relaxed about it, but when I took out my camera to take a photo the guy next to me quickly intervened and gave me the international sign language for bad idea (slit throat sign). On our first stop this same young guy disappeared into the toilet and came back somewhat rejuvenated. He was sniffing a lot and tapped his leg incessantly for the final 4hrs of the journey. Welcome to Columbia.

By the time I arrived it was around 10pm and dark. I opted for another death taxi and by night the place looked horrendous. All I could see was graffiti, garbage and crack heads. All Florian had given me was the name and address of the hostel, I did not see anything else I would need. The driver could not find the hostel and I could tell he was on the verge of just dumping me somewhere – but other than giving him the address there was not a lot I could do. After an hour of driving around these terrible streets off the back of a 78hr journey he finally located the place and I asked the owner if he had any Germans staying there. 'No' was the answer. Tidy. I had a little walk around and I felt out of breath after about three steps - it wasn't until a few days later that I found out Bogota is at 2600m above sea level. 

Celebration / Protest
The hostel was pretty gash and when I woke up there was a kid opposite me who looked like a Mongolian version of Ronnie Corbett. In a week I did not see this guy leave the hostel once. I was about to take a dump when one of the bedroom doors opened and to my relief me and Florian were stood face to face trying to work out if we were who we thought we were (last time we met I had a shaved head and he had quite long hair – now almost the opposite on both accounts). They had not gone to bed until 6am – something that I have grown pretty well accustomed to over the past few weeks – so we grabbed some breakfast and I went for a wander around on my own whilst he got some more sleep. To be fair the place looked a lot nicer by day. The area was set against the backdrop of a huge mountain and by light the graffiti looked pretty awesome. This area of the city was made up of quaint little colonial side streets and it had a nice feel, other areas were pretty damn ghetto. I wandered into the central area and I stuck out like a sore thumb – I was the only person in eyesight wearing shorts. A few people touched me, which on the whole was a disturbing experience. I managed to walk into the middle of some protest or celebration - it was hard to tell which to be honest - but there were a lot of horses and a lot of people shouting "gringo"at me.


When I got back to the hostel Flo introduced me to his mate Obi, and then he told me that another two guys that he sort of knew from Munich were staying upstairs – and that two of their friends were also arriving in a few days. These guys are all on 3-4 week annual vacations – so for the past couple of weeks I have basically been on a German lads holiday. Pretty, pretty, pretty cheap. Columbia is not as cheap as I was lead to believe by the 2009 version of the Lonely planet. I reckon prices have as good as doubled in the two years since that publication, as tourists begin to return following years of bad press. I have not really felt threatened since being here, but it is not a good idea to walk the streets alone in the big cities after dark. I did this a few times in Bogotá and I walked a bit faster than my usual 0.5mph.


La goon
After a few days of partying flo and obi headed off to San Andres, the £450 return flight priced me out, so I hung around with the German boys for a few more days in Bogotá, went to some big lagoon and then we headed north towards the Caribbean coast, to a party town called Teganga.
The bus took 16hrs, and when we climbed on board the back 8 rows or so had already been taken by some big family type arrangement. I reckon some of these people might have been family friends without kids, because they seemed way too happy to be about to face 16 hours on board a bus with their young children. They were constantly making each other laugh and joking around with the children. There was a real variety of people of different generations, even some old woman was getting involved in the banter. It was great watch them all laugh and joke together, constantly shouting and singing. That was for the first 5 minutes of the 16hr journey, after which it became really quite annoying.

Teganga
Teganga was a pretty cool little place but there were a lot of annoying people trying to be hippies, basically rich but dressed in clothes that look like pyjamas. My other minor issue was that in addition to Spanish I also do not speak German. When the 6 of them were together I kind of felt on the fringes, as there was not a lot I could contribute. When in smaller groups it was cool, as they would speak English, which was not only gratefully received but also very impressive. But it was to be expected, it is not as if all of my mates would start speaking German if there was a German in our group. It was not a real problem for me, as I was spending long, lazy days in a hammock reading and practising my Spanish, but at night I began to feel a bit conscious that I was the only one not talking... They are all top top guys, and each made an effort to talk to me in English on nights out – but I sensed that I was probably also a bit annoying for them at times because someone would always feel that they had to make a translation of a joke or story that was told in German..

Being on this lads holiday reminded me of being away with my own mates. We would go to bed at some awful time, get up at midday, argue about what to do for the rest of the day and then just begin drinking again amidst some half-hearted suggestions. I am actually the youngest person amongst this group, somewhat of a first on my travelling experiences. It is reassuring to see that it is still acceptable to go away partying into your late thirties. These boys could seriously put the booze away – they are Bavarians, it is just what they do. The other problem with a group of seven is that it is almost impossible to make travel arrangements, as each wants to party of whatever on a different night – so three of four would be packed and ready to leave at 9am whilst the other three or four have not gone to bed yet. After two of three attempts we finally managed to leave as a team and headed to Santa Marta, en route to some place well off the beaten track called Palomino, a tiny beach in the Tayrona National Park.

Palomino
For some reason the only ATM in Teganga did not take my cash card. so I ran up a tidy little debt of a cool half million pesos. Once we got to Santa Marta I maxed my daily allowance to pay Christian back and got a little for myself for Palomino. After the 2.5hr bus ride we got off at Palomino and I was a little surprised by what I found. It was literally a few shacks along the road. We had to walk through a sort of palm jungle for about 20 minutes to reach the beach, but when we got there I realised what it was all about. The beach was stunning and deserted. There were a few doss houses along the beach front – offering very basic dorms or hammocks to sleep in, or you could pitch your own tent. We took a place that was recommended to the Germans, which was also owned by Germans – so a bit more German thrown into the equation. The beach had much more of a feeling of the Pacific about it as opposed to the Caribbean – huge waves crashing against each other and nothing on the horizon but a feral pack of dogs. These dogs always make me think about bully. Sometimes when I see a dog I first wonder what its reaction would be to being put inside a computer case.
How a dog in a computer case should look

 I think this probably forms my initial benchmark when assessing the worth of any particular dog (although I also like to take a moment to picture them in a flatcap and sun glasses). I repeatedly get told off at restaurants for feeding the stray dogs. I can understand in part as some of the customers find them a nuisance, and if they are getting fed then they will keep coming back. But here I discovered the angle of the conscious owner, who actually likes and look after certain dogs. They put out the scraps of food into a bowl some distance from the restaurant, so if some douche bag like myself feeds them then they have to essentially shout at their own dog – also making them feel bad. I have seen some pretty maingy looking dogs here. Usually they hang around in packs then you will see one with mainge that has been totally ostracised and lies there on its own, pitifully trying to keep the thousands of flies from its various wounds and sores. It makes me feel terrible – far worse than seeing some advert for starving African children. I then have a moral battle to fight. Is it better to feed these dogs – give them a moment of happiness – or is this just prolonging their misery? As horrible as it sounds I think it is better to just let it starve and end the misery. No one is going to help them, and it is not like there are a lot of vets around even if someone was willing to touch the godforsaken thing and go to the expense and time of healing it. I think this kind of struggle is only really restricted to dogs. When I see a gimpy chicken hobbling around on one leg I can barely contain my laughter. I could probably attribute this to a summer working in a chicken factory – maybe sawing the feet off these horrible creatures desensitised me somewhat. I don't want to see them suffer in some battery, but I also won't lose any sleep about it.

Palomino was a strange little place. Utterly deserted but when I took a stroll at night I came across some weird tribal dance taking place on the beach. It seemed pretty inappropriate – a load of young adolescent girls doing some weird sex-dance whilst some old weird looking guy chanted at them. I don't know what the craic was, but it made quite uncomfortable viewing. 

Lynn these are sex people
After a couple of nights on this beach it quickly became obvious that I was running out of cash, and fast. Needless to say there was not a cash point here, and all of the German lads understandably needed their cash for themselves, as they wanted to stay for a week +. So I was forced to make an exit, a 2.5hr bus journey back to Santa Marta just to take out some ruddy bloody cash. I really wanted to stay there for a few more days but instead I have come down to Cartagena, where my boy Hugo arrives on the 2nd for a month of travelling around with me – and also have the Germans back for a night or two in a few days. It was nice to leave in a way as I was getting mercilessly ravaged by mosquitoes, and I am not taking any malaria tablets. It is basically like Frank Spencer turning up for work on the first day of a new job wearing roller-skates. This morning I beat my personal best and woke up with 59 bites. Good times.

Dinner
I arrived in Cartegena late, and as with any city, it looked bad by night. Weird people wandering around whispering something about a bloke called charlie in my ear. I spent today having a look round and it really is an unbelievably beautiful city. The historic centre is a world heritage site, and it is easy to see why. I am now trying to make arrangements for Hugo's arrival – it really does take a lot of effort to make plans here, but I am beginning to get to grips with the language a bit better. I can say exactly what I want but when someone speaks to me my mind freezes and I don't recognise a single word – so conversations are quite one way. But everyone is very friendly here, they talk to me, tell me how long they have lived here, tell me that that love English football, pass me a card with a number on it and then tell me to ring if I need cocaine, weed or hookers. I have literally been given about 5 of these cards today – but on the plus side one of these lovable rogues is going to take me to a cock fight on friday – where I will finally get to see some chickens beat the crap out of each other. Anyway, got to shoot, I have some phone calls to make. Bay.